Une Canadienne Errante

That's me! Just another wandering Canadian, moving around the globe, always looking for my next adventure and my next destination! I started this blog because, before I made the decision to move to Mongolia, I wanted to see what my new city would look like, but all I could find when I searched for images of Mongolia were landscape images. I had no clue what Ulaanbaatar looked like right up until the day I landed. This blog was born so maybe other people might have a better sense of what Ulaanbaatar looks like, if they want or need to know. I've been an expatriate in Ulaanbaatar since September, but before that, I lived in Korea, Kuwait, and France. I'm considering moving to Myanmar in June-- I'll keep you posted. I'm kind of a homebody and a loner, but I also like to walk around a lot, which provides plenty of opportunities for pictures and observations. Being a loner, I rarely share my observations with others, but I'll share some here. I never proofread and rarely edit, so sorry in advance for all the typoes that are likely to sneak their way into this blog.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

A Moron Whore

I developed a crush on Mongolia's national traditional instrument before I even knew what it looked like.  My older brother is a musician (did a two year jazz programme at a community college in Edmonton and got a degree in classical music from McGill), so I've got a little think about buying him cool, traditional instruments if I ever find something really unique in one of the countries I'm visiting.  He plays the double bass (contrabass, stand-up bass, whatever you want to call it), so I'm always on the lookout for interesting string instruments.  Naturally, when I read about the morin khuur, pronounced roughly like "moron whore" or "more in whore", but whichever way you choose to say it, you must pronounce the /h/ the way a Montrealais waitress would pronounce the /h/ on "eggs" when she asks you, "Ow do you like your hhhhhheggs?" (I'm not kidding-- I couldn't make this up!), I decided that I needed to buy one for my brother for Christmas (the porn is just an extra bonus).  So, when I arrived in UB, I went on a search for where I can buy really nice morin khuurs.  Lonely Planet (it's my bible and I have entire sections of it memorised) mentioned two stores where I could buy a morin khuur.  The first store I went to was astronomically expensive, about 200USD for their most simple, plain, unadorned morin khuur, plus an extra 200USD for a hardcase, but the man who works there sat down and started to play the morin khuur (my prospective morin khuur), and I was so taken, I nearly dropped the cash right then and there (which is amazing, because music doesn't usually move me like that).  I'm glad I didn't.  I went to the other music store LP listed, and I found that they had a much wider range of morin khuurs and, morin khuur importantly (if you think I'm punny, you should meet my dad), their morin khuurs were cheaper!  And so were their hardcases!  And I don't just mean cheaper by a bit.  Their morin khuurs are nicer, more ornate, and cheaper by quite a lot.  Also, in this music shop, I could hear someone practicing the morin khuur in one of the backrooms, so I asked the lady at the counter if they also gave lessons (good ol' LP only gives information about language, yoga, and meditation lessons, so I hadn't even considered learning how to play one of these horsey fiddles), and the lady said yes, they do.  I asked the price.  She told me it was 60,000 Tugrugs.  At first, I thought she meant 60,000 Tugrugs for one lesson.  I told her she was killing me.  Then we established that she meant 60,000 Tugrugs for eight lessons!  I told her I loved her.  I'm considering going back with my next paycheque and buying two morin khuurs, one for my bro for Christmas and one for me so I can learn how to play the damn thing, as well (out of me and my two brothers, I'm the only one who can't play an instrument).  Can't wait..


2 comments:

  1. Well, it's pronunced more like morin hoor (mɔrɪn hu:r). Are you learning how to play?

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  2. The double /o/ in Mongolian does not make a long u sound the way we would expect it to when we read it in English. I've double-checked with about five different Mongolians (actually, closer to forty different Mongolians, if you count the times I've asked my students about the pronunciation of the name of this instrument), and it's definitely more like "whore" than "hoor". Also, it's spelled "khuur", which means that you have to make a slight throat-clearning sound when you pronounce the /h/ (I think maybe it's a velar fricative).

    Anyway, I'm not learning to play, yet, but I'd like to. :)

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